Casa de los Muñecos

©Mexch CC BY-SA 3.0.

On your right, at the corner of the Zócalo, you’ll spot a charming building known as the Casa de los Muñecos, or “House of the Dolls.” Now a university museum, it’s considered one of Puebla’s finest examples of Baroque architecture. Built in the 18th century, it originally belonged to Agustín de Ovando y Villavicencio, a city councilman and mayor at the time. You can even see his family’s coat of arms above the main door. But what truly sets this house apart is the row of 16 figures decorating its long façade, made with Puebla’s iconic Talavera ceramic tiles. These are the famous “dolls” that gave the building its nickname, local residents started calling it that because the figures look like frozen characters, caught mid-motion. There are a couple of theories about their meaning: one says they’re caricatures of the colonial officials who refused to let Ovando build his home taller than others in the city, so he mocked them on his façade. Another theory claims the figures represent the Twelve Labors of Hercules. Either way, today the Casa de los Muñecos is owned by the Benemérita Universidad Autónoma de Puebla, and it houses a university museum with over 3,000 works of art, including paintings, furniture, engravings, photographs, and watercolors.

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