

©Benjamin Smith CC BY-SA 4.0.
You’re standing in front of the former Church of Sainte-Marie — a building that still carries the solemn beauty of its sacred past, yet hides a completely different life within. Built between the 12th and 16th centuries, it served as a place of worship at the heart of Sarlat for centuries. But after the French Revolution, it was deconsecrated, sold, and stripped of part of its choir before falling into disuse. Classified as a historic monument, it was brought back to life in the early 2000s by one of Sarlat’s own sons — the world-renowned architect Jean Nouvel. His transformation of the church is nothing short of remarkable. Nouvel preserved its Gothic spirit while infusing it with bold modernity. Vast glass panels, metal walkways, and dramatic lighting give the space a striking, contemporary feel. The most breathtaking feature is its pair of monumental doors — more than fifteen metres high — engraved with a quote from the philosopher Jean Baudrillard: “Architecture is a mixture of nostalgia and anticipation.” A perfect reflection of the way old and new meet here in harmony. And the surprises don’t stop there. Inside the bell tower, a panoramic glass lift takes you thirty metres above the town, offering an incredible 360-degree view over Sarlat’s rooftops, the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos, and the rolling green hills of the Périgord Noir. Today, the church has become a temple of gastronomy — Sarlat’s famous covered market. Here you’ll find the very best of Périgord’s flavours: foie gras in all its forms, from silky terrines to freshly prepared tastings; black truffles — the region’s “black diamonds” — whose aroma fills the air; duck confit and magret, cooked to perfection; golden Périgord walnuts pressed into fragrant oil or baked into crisp pastries; creamy goat’s cheeses, some wrapped in chestnut leaves; and baskets overflowing with porcini mushrooms and other local treasures. To accompany it all, there’s wine from Bergerac, Pécharmant, and Domme — the ideal finishing touch to a feast of regional delights. In Sarlat, every product tells a story, and every market stall reflects a way of life — one where food isn’t just a pleasure, but a proud expression of the region’s culture and soul.






