On this street leading straight up to Edinburgh Castle, you may have noticed a few openings on your right between the buildings, with names like James Court or Lady Stair Close. These narrow passageways, a bit like the traboules you might know from Lyon, lead into small, enclosed courtyards that are quintessentially Edinburgh. Some were originally created to help defend the city and its residents against English attacks, while others were simply private retreats for the wealthy families who lived here. But these charming spots haven’t always looked this way. By the 19th century, as Edinburgh’s population boomed, the Old Town had become overcrowded, unsanitary, and unsafe. This courtyard in particular was crammed with residents living in increasingly poor conditions, surrounded by filth. It wasn’t until 1960 that the city’s chief engineer declared the buildings unfit for habitation and threatened demolition, prompting a full restoration. Reopened in 1969, Milne’s Court is now perfectly safe, offering a glimpse of traditional Edinburgh architecture and atmosphere as you wander between the houses. And if you spot other courtyards along your way, take a peek, some of them are well worth the detour.