You are now at Qafa e Pazarit, the heart of Gjirokastër’s old bazaar. The name literally means “the bazaar pass”, a key crossroads set just below the castle walls, right in the centre of the old town, which today is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bazaar first took shape in the seventeenth century, but most of what you see around you dates from a major rebuilding around 1879, after a devastating fire nearly destroyed the entire area. That reconstruction explains the striking architectural harmony of the place, with buildings following the same Ottoman model, two or three storeys high, stone façades, slate roofs, and shops opening directly onto the street, perfectly adapted to the steep slope. Traditionally, the ground floor was used by craftsmen and merchants, while the upper levels served as storage, workshops or living spaces, making this area both a commercial hub and a social centre. Seen from above, the bazaar forms a star-shaped network, linking several cobbled lanes to the surrounding historic neighbourhoods. As you walk through it, you are moving through a space that has never lost its original purpose, a place of trade, encounters and daily life, now animated by souvenir shops, craft studios, cafés and traditional restaurants. Despite the growth of tourism, some traditional crafts are still alive here, especially woodwork, textiles, carpets and the sale of local products like honey, olive oil and raki. Just a short walk away, you’ll find several important landmarks, including the Bazar Mosque, built in 1757 and the only mosque in the city to survive the communist era, as well as the Saint Sotir Orthodox Church from the eighteenth century, reflecting Gjirokastër’s long-standing religious diversity. Today, Qafa e Pazarit is one of the city’s most photographed and most visited spots, not only for its balanced architecture, but because it truly captures the spirit of Gjirokastër, a place where centuries of Ottoman history, commerce and everyday life continue to flow naturally into the present.