Saint-Michel-des-Lions Church

To your left is the Church of Saint-Michel-des-Lions, instantly recognizable by its tall bell tower: a feature typical of the Limousin region, much like the one on Saint-Étienne Cathedral. Built between the 14th and 16th centuries in Gothic style, its history stretches back much further: the site originally held a chapel as early as the 7th century. That early structure was gradually expanded over time, until it was destroyed by two major fires five centuries later. A new church was built in the following century, but it collapsed shortly after. A third church rose in its place, though only two chapels and part of a wall from that version survive today. Over the years, additions and restorations gave rise to the church you see now, which was officially listed as a Historic Monument in 1909. But the building’s troubles didn’t end there. In 1810, the bell tower was struck by lightning and had to be rebuilt along with its spire. If you look closely, you’ll notice a copper sphere perched at the very top: an unusual feature for a church. Originally weighing 600 kilograms, it was added in 1824 to assist with geodetic measurements and, more practically, to serve as a lightning rod. Geodesy, the science of measuring the Earth’s shape and dimensions, relied on tall reference points like this one, and astronomers would climb to the top to carry out their observations. From the beginning, the ball sparked debate, many felt it was too heavy and lacked any religious symbolism. The controversy continued until 1914, when the bell tower was restored and the original sphere was replaced with a much lighter version. Still metallic, still divisive, and still there to this day. The church gets its name from the two lion statues that guard the entrance, and in 2023, it was officially elevated to the rank of basilica: the first church in the Limousin to receive that title. It also houses the relics of Saint Martial, the city’s first bishop and patron saint.