Dome Square

This square is a lively meeting place that regularly hosts contemporary art installations, open-air concerts, and in winter, one of Europe’s most renowned Christmas markets, with its wooden chalets, lights, and local specialities. Yet beneath your feet lies a much older and almost invisible history: for centuries, this area was a cemetery. Excavations have revealed thousands of burials dating from the 13th to the 18th century, sometimes layered on top of one another, bearing witness to the epidemics and difficult periods the city has endured. Today, everything rests beneath a thick archaeological layer, protected and preserved, as excavations are limited in order to avoid weakening the foundations of the historic buildings surrounding the square. The ground you see is covered with traditional grey and pink granite cobblestones, restored after the country’s independence in the 90s to replace Soviet concrete and bring back the square’s historic appearance. This paving has become a subtle symbol of Latvia’s regained identity, and high heels are best avoided here, good walking shoes are a much better choice for exploring the Old Town. But the square still has a few surprises in store. Have you noticed the armadillo escaping from the maze as you walk up the steps, or the reclining unicorn? Take the time to explore the square, as two other animals straight out of medieval imagination are hidden here. A small hint: head towards the back of the cathedral to take a step back in time.