The Lawatiya Houses

On your left is one of Muttrah’s most distinctive places: Sur al-Lawatiya, the fortified quarter of the Lawatiya community, sometimes called Oman’s “forbidden city”. Behind these walls lies the story of a Shiite merchant community that settled in Muscat between the late 18th and 19th centuries, after a long journey from Sindh, Iran and India. The Lawatiya built their prosperity through maritime trade, and their homes still reflect that wealth, with richly decorated façades, carved balconies and inner courtyards, all contained within a rectangular area completely enclosed by ramparts. For many decades, the quarter was closed to outsiders and accessible only to members of the community and their guests. The exact reasons for this seclusion remain open to interpretation, ranging from religious protection in a predominantly Ibadi country, to a wish to preserve family privacy, or simply a collective community choice. Even today, although access is no longer officially forbidden, entry remains limited, and the neighbourhood is best appreciated from the outside, with respect for the private lives of those who live there.