Remuh Synagogue

©Zygmunt Put CC BY-SA 4.0. <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.fr>via Wikipedia Commons

This is one of the few synagogues still standing in Kraków —the Remuh Synagogue, and its historic cemetery. “Remuh” is an acronym formed from the initials of Rabbi Moses Isserles. Above the entrance, a Hebrew inscription reads: “The New Synagogue of Remuh, of blessed memory.” The synagogue dates back to the 16th century. In 1553, a wealthy merchant received royal permission to convert his home into a synagogue for his son Moses, who had become a rabbi. The original wooden structure was destroyed by fire, and the current stone building was completed in 1558. During World War II, the synagogue wasn’t torn down, but repurposed by the Germans as a weapons depot. While the interior was completely destroyed, the outer structure survived. The cemetery beside the synagogue, established in 1551, wasn’t so lucky. The walls were torn down and the tombstones sold off as paving stones. One of the only graves left untouched was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles. Restoration work began after the war. In 1956, during efforts to clear the site, over 700 tombstones dating from the 16th to the 19th century were uncovered—making this the oldest Jewish cemetery in Kraków. As you walk through the historic headstones, you’ll come across the most revered grave of all—that of Rabbi Moses. Many tombstones bear symbolic carvings. Judaism prohibits the depiction of human figures, so most graves feature animal and plant designs. For example, a pair of hands held in blessing usually marks the grave of a Cohen, a Jewish priest. Following a full restoration in 2016, the Remuh Synagogue became the main place of worship for Kraków’s Jewish community. As part of the renovation, a bench was installed in front of the synagogue to honour Jan Karski—a hero of the Polish resistance who informed the Allies about the Holocaust. It’s a place well worth visiting. You’ll need to pay to enter, and note that men are required to wear a kippah as a sign of respect.

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