Here is the entrance to Úbeda’s Mercado de Abastos, the big municipal market where the city wakes up each morning to the rhythm of its stalls. The building you see dates from 1933–1935 and is one of the rare examples of twentieth-century Rationalist architecture in Andalusia, built on the former site of the Convent of La Coronada, which disappeared in the nineteenth century. With its clean volumes, functional lines and multi-level layout following the slope of the terrain, it perfectly reflects the modern spirit of its time. Inside, the atmosphere changes completely: this is a lively, everyday market where residents have been buying their fresh produce for generations. You’ll find the olives and olive oil that have made Jaén world-famous, along with vegetables from the Guadalquivir’s orchards, mountain cheeses, Andalusian charcuterie, sourdough breads and traditional pastries. The region’s culinary specialities are deeply linked to the landscape surrounding the city. Must-tries include cochifrito, small pieces of pork fried until crisp; andrajos, a rustic stew of vegetables and game thickened with thin sheets of dough; and summer pipirrana, a refreshing mix of tomatoes, peppers, cucumber and hard-boiled egg drizzled with olive oil. You’ll also come across the local morcilla, a smooth black pudding with onion; ajoblanco, a cold almond-and-garlic soup; and, of course, Andalusian gazpacho, made with blended tomatoes and fresh vegetables. In winter, people still make gachas, a warm cream of toasted flour and olive oil, as well as hearty soups prepared with the season’s new oil. And for those with a sweet tooth, don’t miss ochíos with paprika, small savoury buns seasoned with pimentón; leche vieja, a silky dessert of milk and cinnamon; or empanadillas de cabello de ángel, little pastries filled with a delicate pumpkin jam inherited from convent traditions. If you step inside the market, take a moment to look around, breathe in the aromas and maybe even taste something. This is where a genuine encounter with the cuisine of Jaén begins.