Montagne Sainte-Victoire: hiking, activities and visits

Follow in the footsteps of Cézanne who had a particular affection for the Sainte-Victoire mountain. The French painter indeed created no less than 87 paintings of this mountain with elegant curves and changing colors...

He said about it: "I need to know the geology, how Sainte-Victoire takes root, the geological color of the lands, all this moves me, makes me better", he would paint the Sainte-Victoire mountain until the end of his life.

The Croix de Provence is also inseparable from the massif, it is visible from kilometers around. A place for walks, religious and architectural heritage, typical Provence landscapes, various sports activities or family picnics, the possibilities are multiple at the Sainte-Victoire mountain site. Like Mont Ventoux, the Grand Site Sainte Victoire is a must-see when visiting Provence.

To discover the Sainte-Victoire mountain in all its forms, we advise you to take the road that goes around it. To the south, you can admire the sharp walls that peak above the Arc basin. To the north, the relief softens at the level of the plateaus below the mountain. The Sainte Victoire mountain is no less than 32,000 hectares inscribed in the Natura 2000 network.

The Sainte-Victoire mountain cannot be visited all year round, following the terrible fire of 1995, access is restricted in summer in order to respect the preservation of the natural heritage. It is therefore important to inquire before going there, at the Aix-en-Provence tourist office, for example, which will give you the signal.

Many hiking trails allow you to discover it, it is also possible to practice climbing there. 18 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide, the Sainte-Victoire mountain is located in both the Bouches-du-Rhône and the Var, in southeastern France. Its highest point is located at 1,011 meters altitude.

It is also possible to sleep at the Prieuré Saint Victoire most of the time, provided there is space, as no reservation is possible. 14 beds are available at the refuge. The refuge is located on the east side of the esplanade, this former monastery is managed by an association.

Leaving Aix-en-Provence, take the D10 towards Vauvenargues for 7 kilometers, then turn right towards the Bimont dam to the parking lot of the same name.

First of all, what is imperative to know is that hiking around Sainte-Victoire, you have to earn it!

600 meters of elevation gain, with some steep passages depending on the chosen itinerary, you need a minimum of equipment: hiking shoes, warm clothes for winter and/or rain gear, a hat, food and drinks.

Warning: there is no drinking water on the massif, plan your water needs according to the number of people participating in the hike before embarking on this arid nature.

Medium level trail from the Plan d'En Chois parking

Departure and return from the Plan d'En Chois parking
Duration: 4 hours for the round trip to the Croix de Provence
Elevation gain: 650 meters
Difficulty: medium

Take the trail that leads to the refuge Cézanne, a wide trail with a view of the Croix de Provence, ideal for warming up. Arrival at the hamlet of the hole from where you can see the refuge as well as a wrought iron cross.

Ascent to the Priory with a beautiful elevation gain, then take the "easy" path through the Pas de l'Escalette indicating 1h30 of walking. From the Pas de l'Escalette, you will have a nice view of the Berre pond, Gardanne, the Sainte-Baume laisse, Lake Bimont... A 180° view.

Upon reaching the Priory, you will discover this 17th century building rehabilitated by the Association "Friends of Sainte-Victoire", which continues its maintenance today.

Push another 10 minutes of walking and you will reach the Croix de Provence from which you will have an unobstructed view of the Priory below and the entire region.

The marked trails on the western part of the mountain

GR9 Venturiers trail: Les Cabassols – Priory (n°20)
GR9 the ridges: Priory – Croix de Provence – Pic des Mouches (n°12)
Blue route Imoucha: Bimont – Priory (n°5)
Red route: Plan d'En Chois – Priory (n°6)
Yellow route: refuge Cézanne – Bau Cézanne (n°7), temporarily forbidden, dangerous
Brown route: refuge Cézanne – chapel Saint-Ser (n°10)
Green route Forcioli: Plan d'En Chois – le Garagaï (n°8)
Black route: les Deux Aiguilles – le Garagaï (n°9)
Green route: Marbrière – Brèche du Clapier – ridges (n°13)
Christian de Barbarin trail: Vauvenargues – Les Bonfillons
Yellow trail of the Oppidum: les Deux Aiguilles – Oppidum (n°11)
Yellow trail du Trou: Le Bouquet – Saint Antonin

The marked trails on the eastern part of the mountain

Plaideurs trail: Vauvenargues – col de Suberoque (n°19)
Red route: Saut du Loup – refuge Baudino (n°14)
Black route: chapel Saint-Ser – col de Vauvenargues (n°15) closed from February 1 to August 15, 2022.
Red route: relay of Saint-Ser – col de Saint-Ser (n°16)
Green route: relay of Saint-Ser – Pic des Mouches (n°17)
Green trail of bramefant
Brown route: Puyloubier – Pic des Mouches (trail closed)
GR9: Puyloubier – Pic des Mouches (n°12)
Red route: col des Portes – Pic des Mouches (n°18)

Aurigon parking

You reach the Roques-Hautes parking via the departmental road D 17 between Le Tholonet and Saint-Antonin de Bayon.

En Chois parking

Take the direction of Le Tholonet and follow the D17 to the parking before Le Bouquet.

Deux Aiguilles parking

Free parking in Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon near the Sainte-Victoire house on the departmental road D 17, between Le Tholonet and Saint-Antonin de Bayon. Ideal parking for those who wish to head towards the climbing sites.

The activities available at the Sainte-Victoire mountain are mainly related to sports:

The Sainte-Victoire House: museum space and its exhibition room, raising visitor awareness about the fragility of the environment.
Hiking from easy to difficult level with some stages including climbing.
Climbing at Deux Aiguilles, it's in total more than 500 climbing routes through a wide choice of grades, from sport climbing to long routes of 300 m.
Mountain biking, practiced on 150 km of itineraries, about 12 circuits on several levels: easy to perilous.
Tour of the Bimont dam.
Visit to the Bibémus quarry on the road to Vauvenargues, this site offers you a magnificent view of Sainte-Victoire which inspired the painter Cézanne. The guided tour presents Cézanne's cabin, reproductions engraved in enameled sandstone, the exploitation of stone quarries that were used from Antiquity to the 18th century for the construction of Aix-en-Provence monuments. No self-guided tour.
Paragliding: tandem flights and site for experienced and autonomous pilots. Two sites approved by the FFVL: from the Saint-Ser parking (Puyloubier) to the Pic des Mouches, and to the southwest starting from the Pont de l'Anchois parking (Saint-Antonin sur Bayon).
Château Gassier, at the foot of Sainte-Victoire, 40 ha of Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire vineyards, treasure hunts, countryside picnics with vineyards on the horizon, and oenology workshops are offered at Château Gassier.
Sainte Victoire Animal Park, an educational farm and leisure park with inflatable structures.
Donkey or horseback riding to discover the plains and landscapes of Provence at the pace of equids.
The Departmental Park of Roques-Hautes on 800 hectares offers hiking trails, a 25 ha orchard of almond trees, views of fig trees, olive trees...
Pourrières, its heritage, its remains and monuments.
The restanques and bories, dry stone constructions typical of the Mediterranean basin in the middle of scrubland.

Victoire comes from the Celtic or Ligurian word Ventur or Venturius, meaning God of the heights, while the site was occupied by Celto-Ligurian tribes who, notably, built an oppidum (fortified prehistoric habitat) at the foot of the cliffs.

It was Abbé Meissonnier, to thank God for having protected Provence from the Prussian scourge, who ordered its construction in 1871. The 22,000 donors who participated in its construction have their names carefully preserved in a copper heart inside the monument. The Croix de Provence is 7 m high and it is placed on an 11 m high base. It can be seen from almost the entire Bouches-du-Rhône department.

No drinking water available on the Sainte-Victoire mountain for hikers,
Toilets are available for people staying at the refuge.
There are scattered refuges and group lodges for those who wish to go on multi-day hikes.
Prepare equipment adapted to the season and walking (ridges, cliffs).
The itineraries are classified by level, it is important to check before going on an adventure, especially when you are not used to walking several hours under a blazing sun!
Don't forget to check the weather.
Do not stray from marked trails, it is very easy to get lost, moreover, the site is classified and protected.
Bring a bag for waste, there is no garbage collection on the mountain.
For obvious reasons, it is forbidden to light a fire or smoke on site. Simple rules, and accessible to all, to have a good time and enjoy the panorama.

Sainte-Victoire is a place rich in prehistoric, Roman heritage, there are also many places of worship: the Hermitage of Saint Ser, the Priory Sainte Victoire, the chapel of Notre-Dame d'Astorg and that of Sainte-Consorce, the oratory of Malivert, and the Croix de Provence. A rich Provençal architectural heritage with numerous castles and picturesque villages. The Sainte-Victoire site has no less than 137 archaeological sites and 145 historical sites, it is also a link between the departments of Var and Bouches du Rhône in the country of Provence.

The legend of the Chapel of Saint Ser

It is said that in the 5th century, a hermit known by the name of SERVUS DEI (Servant of God) had found refuge in a cave, on the south face of Sainte-Victoire, not very far from the village of Puyloubier. Christians in the region paid homage to him, which angered the King of the Visigoths, Euric, who demanded that his ears be cut off before having him beheaded. His body was buried on this same place. The pilgrimage that took place every year, on Whit Monday, to commemorate his martyrdom and the memory of his healing talents against deafness, had to stop in 1993, after the collapse of the chapel following a landslide due to the fire of 1989 that ravaged a very large part of the Sainte-Victoire landscape. The chapel was rebuilt in 2001 and in honor of Saint Ser, there is an altar, a spring, and the ears of those who participated in its reconstruction which have been drawn on the wooden framework. A little extra curiosity to discover!