Brace Radić Square

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You’ve arrived at one of Split’s most charming little squares: Braće Radić Square. But don’t be surprised if no one calls it that! For locals, it’s simply “Voćni trg”, the Fruit Square. The nickname comes from the old fruit and vegetable market that bustled here every morning until the 1960s, right under the windows of Venetian palaces. Small as it is, the square is packed with history. In front of you stands the elegant Milesi Palace, a fine example of 17th-century Dalmatian Baroque architecture. Once the home of a wealthy noble family, it now occasionally hosts exhibitions and cultural events. Facing it is a statue of Croatia’s celebrated writer Marko Marulić, who wrote in Latin, Croatian, and even old Dalmatian dialects, helping preserve local languages. The bronze sculpture is the work of Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous 20th-century sculptor. To your left, you can’t miss the white stone Venetian tower, a 15th-century remnant of fortifications built by the Venetians to defend the city against pirates and the Ottomans. It is said to have been used more than once as a temporary prison for troublemakers or captured pirates along the Dalmatian coast. Local legend even tells of a chatty prisoner who managed to charm a servant from his cell window… and who supposedly received secret deliveries of wine through the bars. Romance or tall tale? In Split, it’s often a bit of both. Beyond its historic landmarks, what truly defines Voćni trg is its warm, authentic atmosphere. In the mornings, the cobblestones echo with the footsteps of deliverymen and conversations in the local dialect. By afternoon, the terraces fill with visitors and locals alike, and by evening, it’s one of the loveliest spots to enjoy a drink in the shade of its stone façades, just steps from Diocletian’s Palace. Thanks to its natural acoustics, Voćni trg has long been a stage for spontaneous performances. In the 1990s, after the war of independence, groups of young artists would gather here for impromptu street plays, sometimes comedic, sometimes political. That tradition lives on today with musicians, storytellers, and street performers, especially in the summer. A small square, then, but one that blends history, culture… and the easy charm of Dalmatian life.

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