Croatian National Theatre

Here’s one of Split’s great cultural landmarks: the Croatian National Theatre. This pale yellow, neo-Baroque-style building has been home to more than a century of theatre, opera, ballet, and local passion. It opened in 1893, when Split was still under Austro-Hungarian rule, and its construction marked a milestone in the affirmation of Croatian identity. This was a place where performances were held in the Croatian language, where national culture was celebrated, where ideas were debated, and, on occasion, where controversy was stirred. From the very start, it became an intellectual and artistic hub, hosting everything from classical plays and Italian operas to local premieres, concerts, and festivals. Today, it still offers a rich programme blending tradition and modernity, with permanent opera, ballet, and theatre companies. Architecturally, it’s a textbook example of late 19th-century design, with its neo-Baroque details, symmetrical façade, and understated elegance. Inside, the main hall is all gold leaf, red velvet, and curved balconies, evoking the grand theatres of Europe from the same era. At its inauguration, a small group of local dignitaries famously walked out mid-performance, outraged that the play was being performed in Croatian rather than Italian. It was a highly symbolic gesture in a city then torn between competing cultural identities. Over the years, the theatre has become a proud emblem of the city. Every summer, it plays a leading role in the Split Summer Festival, when the entire city turns into an open-air stage and operas or plays are performed in spectacular settings like the courtyards of Diocletian’s Palace or historic squares. Right next to the theatre, on this very square, stands the Church of Our Lady of Health, a religious building that contrasts with the theatre’s age with its relatively modern lines. Built in 1937 by architect Lavoslav Horvat, it reflects the evolution of Split’s architecture in the 20th century. If it’s open when you pass by, do step inside to take a look.