Veli Varoš District

On your right begins the neighbourhood of Veli Varoš, one of the oldest in Split, and without doubt one of the most charming. Here, you leave behind the crowds of the palace and the Riva to wander into a maze of narrow lanes, stone staircases, hidden gardens, and brightly painted shutters. It’s a true village within the city. The name Veli Varoš literally means “the big suburb,” and that’s exactly what it was: a district built in the Middle Ages, outside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace, to house fishermen, craftsmen, stonemasons, and working families. For centuries, it was the beating heart of Split’s working-class life, with its own identity, churches, traditions… and secrets. Many houses here follow the traditional Dalmatian style, with limestone façades, red-tiled roofs, wooden balconies, and sometimes exterior staircases leading up to the living quarters. You can still catch the scent of laundry drying in the sun, basil growing on window sills, and the neighbour’s cat keeping watch over the street from a stone wall. The area is dotted with small, centuries-old churches, often opened only on certain religious feast days. For a long time, the people of Veli Varoš were known as “the tough ones”, proud, talkative, handy with tools, and fiercely attached to their hillside. You won’t find grand monuments here, but every stone and every step tells a story. Take the time to get lost, it’s the best way to meet the soul of Split.