Church of San Michele in Foro and Palazzo Pretorio

The lace like stone façade of the Church of San Michele in Foro is breathtaking, isn’t it, but let us take a moment to return to its name so you have time to admire it. The church stands exactly on the site of the city’s former Roman forum, which explains why it is literally called Saint Michael in the Forum. Beneath your feet, about two metres below ground level, the remains of this ancient Roman square can still be found, reminding us how much the city’s level has risen over the centuries due to the accumulation of debris and flooding among other factors. The current church underwent a major reconstruction from 1070 onwards by order of Pope Alexander II, a former bishop of Lucca. Its façade, in the Pisan Romanesque style inspired by the Cathedral of Pisa, is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular in Tuscany, rising well above the roof of the church and giving the impression of a building larger than it really is. The architects had originally planned to extend the central nave to align it with this monumental façade, but this project was never completed and its unintentional imbalance now contributes to its unique character. As you observe the four levels of superimposed loggias, you will notice that each column is different, some twisted, others carved, smooth or inlaid, creating an incredible visual and aesthetic diversity in white, green and pink marble. If you look up to the very top, you will see a majestic four metre high statue of the Archangel Michael defeating the dragon; according to a local legend, the archangel wears a diamond on his finger, and some visitors spend several minutes in the square searching for the mysterious reflection that appears from a certain angle when the sun strikes the polished marble, so try your luck. I will now let you move to the right of the façade to take a moment to observe the Madonna Salutis Portus, Our Lady of the Safe Harbour, whose history is particularly touching. This white marble Virgin and Child was commissioned to celebrate the end of the plague epidemic of 1476 that had severely struck the city, with the golden rays forming a halo behind Mary evoking the light and hope regained after the darkness of the disease. However, the statue visible today on the façade is a copy, as the original was moved inside the church to protect it from the weather. As you turn around, you'll spot the Palazzo Pretorio, crowned with a large clock. It was built in the 14th century to house the court of the Republic of Lucca. Remarkably, it was Matteo Civitali, the same brilliant sculptor who created the Madonna Salutis Portus you have just admired, who was entrusted with designing the entire architectural project of the Palazzo Pretorio in 1492, a key Renaissance figure, both sculptor and architect. Its monumental loggia, still accessible today, hosts temporary exhibitions that are often on a large scale, so feel free to take a look.