Piazza Antelminelli and Saint Martin’s Cathedral

It’s impossible not to admire the imposing Saint Martin’s Cathedral overlooking Piazza Antelminelli, whose façade features an intriguing characteristic in its asymmetrical porch. One arcade was made narrower than the other in order to adapt to the presence of the already existing bell tower at the time of its reconstruction from 1060 onward. An even older church once stood here, and its campanile was preserved rather than demolished- today it is the tallest in the city at over 58 metres. Take a closer look at the pillars, as on the one to the right, closest to the bell tower, you will find a small labyrinth carved into the stone, a medieval symbol representing the spiritual journey of pilgrims travelling along the Via Francigena as they passed through Lucca on their way to Rome. Carved in marble, it reflects the detours and difficulties the faithful may encounter before reaching salvation. Inside, you will find the Volto Santo, a highly venerated wooden crucifix depicting Jesus, which legend says was sculpted by Nicodemus, a witness to Christ’s crucifixion. Unable to represent Christ’s face, he is said to have fallen asleep before discovering upon waking that it had been miraculously completed by angels. The story goes that the sculpture later arrived in Lucca aboard an unmanned boat from the Holy Land before being transported into the city on a cart guided only by oxen, while modern science dates the crucifix to the 9th century, making it the oldest wooden sculpture in Europe. But that’s not all, as the cathedral holds many more treasures and is also home to the magnificent tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, the wife of Paolo Guinigi, who died at just 26 while giving birth to her second child. Deeply affected by her passing, Paolo Guinigi commissioned this marble sarcophagus which portrays her lying in a peaceful sleep, with a small dog at her feet as a symbol of fidelity.