San Gregorio Armeno Street

Here you are on the famous Via San Gregorio Armeno, a street named after the church on your left, built around 930 AD. It's better known as Christmas Alley, and you’ll soon see why! This street is packed with artisan workshops specializing in nativity figurines. It’s become a huge tourist attraction, especially during the Christmas season when the street really comes alive. You might not know this, but the Italian Nativity scene, or 'Presepe,' is a cherished Italian tradition that has a long history, deeply rooted in Naples. The first written mention of a nativity scene dates back to 1205, but the tradition of figurine-making is even older; it dates back to the time when this street was home to a Roman temple dedicated to Ceres, where locals left small terracotta statues as offerings. The golden age of Neapolitan nativity scenes arrived in the 18th century. It became a huge pastime for the nobility, who would compete to create the most elaborate and imaginative scenes, often hiring the top artists of the time to bring their visions to life. These nativity scenes were displayed in churches and private homes, and visitors would come to enjoy them during the Christmas season. The figurines can be quite big, with terracotta faces, glass eyes, and jointed wooden bodies. They carry many meanings beyond the simple religious Nativity figures. You’ll also find them displayed in scarabattola: glass cases or domes for better protection. While you’re here, you can also visit the church dedicated to Saint Gregory of Armenia. It’s one of the city’s finest Baroque complexes, boasting an impressive coffered ceiling and a beautiful 16th-century cloister. Among the lemon trees and peaceful gardens, you’ll spot a statue of Jesus surrounded by dolphins. You can enter the cloister through a gate on Vico Giuseppe Maffei Street, about 100 meters to your left.