Santa Chiara Basilica

Standing before you is the Santa Chiara Basilica, part of a major religious complex built in the early 14th century by Robert of Anjou and his wife, Queen Sancha of Majorca. The site is home not only to this Gothic church but also to two convents constructed over ancient Roman baths – one for the Poor Clares, the order founded by Saint Clare, aka Santa Chiara herself, and one for the Franciscan friars. There’s also a stunning majolica-tiled cloister that has been fully restored. The entire complex is listed as an Italian National Monument. The basilica, tall and understated with a single rose window topped by a small oculus, is the largest Gothic structure in Naples. Completed in 1328, it became the royal pantheon of the House of Anjou, and is especially renowned for its beautifully sculpted tombs created by Tuscan master artists. The most impressive of these is the tomb of King Robert of Anjou. Inside, there’s also a dedicated room featuring an 18th-century nativity scene – a prime example of the Neapolitan nativity scene tradition, which goes beyond just showing the Nativity story, also offering a glimpse into Roman Naples. The complex was originally built in a Provençal Gothic style, but took on a new look in the 18th century when Baroque became all the rage. That’s when the Florentine artist Giotto decorated the church in magnificent frescoes. Sadly, the building was heavily bombed by Allied forces in 1943, but it was later rebuilt in its original Gothic style. The most enchanting part of the monastery is the Cloister of the Poor Clares, located behind the basilica at number 49/c Via Santa Chiara. It’s famous for its 72 columns and beautifully painted ceramic benches – a serene, timeless escape right in the heart of bustling Naples. Designed by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro, the architect behind the Baroque restoration of the church, the cloister’s frescoes depict scenes from the Old Testament and the lives of the saints, while the benches show daily life as imagined for the cloistered nuns. See if you can spot Sister Clare herself, shown gently stroking a cat. The colorful ceramic tiles echo the blue of the sky, the yellow of lemons, and the green of wisteria, all framed by citrus trees, giving the cloister a harmonious, almost sweet, Garden of Eden feel. Access to the church is free, but you will have to pay around €7 to visit the cloister. And if you’re yearning for more, you can also visit the archaeological museum that traces the history of Naples from antiquity to today.