Dome Cathedral

Welcome to the heart of Latvia’s capital, right in front of the Dome Cathedral, officially dedicated to St Mary, and now the largest medieval church in the Baltic States. Founded in 1211 by Bishop Albert shortly after the creation of Riga, it has passed through more than eight centuries of history and undergone many transformations, which can still be seen today in its blend of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Neo-Gothic elements. The entrance to the building, located on the left, stands out for a rather surprising feature, because you actually have to walk down several steps to enter. And no, it’s not the colossal structure sinking under its own weight, but rather the level of the surrounding ground that has risen by more than three metres over the centuries. While you once had to climb a few steps to access the cathedral’s interior, you now need to descend around ten. But this cathedral is best known for its monumental organ from 1884, long considered one of the largest in the world. For its inauguration, composer Franz Liszt even wrote a piece specifically dedicated to this instrument, proof of its international importance. The organ impresses as much by its size as by its sound power: it contains nearly 6,800 pipes, some of which exceed ten metres in height, and is capable of producing a range of sounds comparable to that of an entire orchestra. The site is also surrounded by legends, including those of secret crypts said to hide ancient treasures, as well as by the very real history of the many medieval burials that were once located beneath the church floor. For centuries, being buried inside the cathedral was considered a privilege, and the location depended directly on social status and financial means. The closer the grave was to the altar, the higher the price, as it was believed that being buried near this sacred space symbolically brought one closer to God. The wealthiest and most notable figures were therefore laid to rest beneath the choir or near the altar, while others were buried further away in the nave. Over time, several thousand people are believed to have been interred within the building itself. Following floods and for sanitary reasons, burials were eventually banned in the 18th century and the remains were transferred to external cemeteries.