San Blas

The benches in San Blas Square are the perfect excuse to catch your breath. And yes, climbing these cobblestone streets at 3,400 meters (about 11,150 feet) above sea level can feel like a serious workout. If you’ve already picked up some coca leaves to help with the altitude, this might be the moment to chew a few while you take in one of Cusco’s most charming, artistic, and bohemian neighborhoods.

With its whitewashed houses, blue doors, artisan workshops, and cafés, San Blas can feel almost suspended in time. Before the Spanish arrived, the neighborhood was known as T’oqokachi. It was an important Inca residential district and, according to chroniclers, was home to a temple dedicated to the god of Thunder.

Around 1560, the conquistadors renamed the area after Saint Blaise and established a parish here. A fountain once flowed in the middle of the square, turning it into a natural gathering place—and, no doubt, a perfect spot for local gossip. Overlooking the square is San Blas Church, one of the oldest churches in Cusco, inaugurated in 1564.

Step inside and you’ll find one of the great treasures of Andean colonial art: its intricately carved wooden pulpit. Carved from a single block of cedar in the 17th century, the craftsmanship is astonishingly delicate. Who made it remains a mystery, with authorship traditionally disputed between the sculptors Esteban Horcasitas and the Inca artist Juan Tomás Tuyro Túpac.

Look carefully near the very top of the structure for a small carved skull. A persistent legend claims that it is the actual skull of the Inca artist himself, placed there as an eternal signature. Once you’re back outside, take your time wandering among the market’s one-of-a-kind handicrafts and sculpture workshops.

And if you’re here as evening falls, listen for the musicians who bring the square to life. You’ll soon understand why San Blas is more than just another neighborhood to visit—it’s often described as the soul of Cusco. Now that you’ve had a chance to recharge, there are only a few more steps to climb before you reach a beautiful viewpoint at the top of the stairs, perfect for taking in—and photographing—the rooftops of the city.