Carmelite Church

Since the separation of Church and State in 1976, after the end of the Salazar dictatorship, Portugal has been a secular country. Still, Catholicism remains deeply rooted in Portuguese culture, with millions of followers and a strong presence in daily life. No matter where you go, from big cities to the tiniest villages, you’re sure to find a church or chapel nearby. Take Aveiro, for example. It’s not a huge city, yet there are around ten churches just in the city centre. One of them is the Carmelite Church, also known as the Church of São João Evangelista. Its origins date back to the late 16th or early 17th century, whenthe powerful family of the 4th Duke of Aveiro turned their private estate into a convent. In 1658, the first Carmelite nuns arrived from Lisbon to settle here. Over the next two centuries, the convent grew and evolved, eventually giving rise to the church itself in 1738. From the outside, the building is fairly understated, you might even walk past without a second thought. But don’t let that fool you. Built during a period of great prosperity in Portugal, the Carmelite Church is a masterpiece of Baroque interior design. Its walls and chancel are richly decorated with gilded wood carvings and azulejos, the iconic Portuguese ceramic tiles. The ceiling of the nave resembles a vast canvas, beautifully painted with scenes from the life of Saint Teresa of Jesus. A wonderful surprise, and a designated national monument, not to be missed while exploring Aveiro.