Basilica of Saint-Eulalia

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You’re now standing in front of the beautiful Basilica of Saint Eulalia, with its striking entrance portico. This building is considered a cornerstone in the history of Christianity on the Iberian Peninsula. According to scholars, the church was built on the site of one of the first Christian temples in Hispania, constructed just after Emperor Constantine declared religious tolerance across the Roman Empire. Saint Constantine was the first Roman emperor to put an end to Christian persecution and allow freedom of worship. He also reestablished Byzantium as Constantinople, modern-day Istanbul, but back to Merida. To celebrate this new era of religious freedom, the temple was dedicated to the young martyr Eulalia, who, according to tradition, was burned alive and beheaded here for standing up to Emperor Diocletian’s anti-Christian laws. The temple became a major pilgrimage site and grew quite wealthy, especially under the guidance of Merida’s bishops. The lavish 4th-century basilica they built was eventually destroyed during the Almohad invasions. Unfortunately, nothing remains of the golden coffered ceilings, intricate mosaics, or marble decorations. But in the crypt beneath the current church, you can still see traces of Roman houses and Visigothic remains, built around what was once Saint Eulalia’s original mausoleum. The basilica we see today was built in the 13th century after King Alfonso IX reconquered Merida. It was constructed by the Order of Santiago, on the ruins of the earlier church. This new martyr's basilica was directly linked to the Vatican and remained part of the Holy See's property until the late 19th century. Today, it forms Merida’s UNESCO–listed archaeological complex, and it’s definitely worth a visit. It's actually the only fully medieval structure left in the city. Now, take a closer look at that gorgeous portico, known as the “Hornito de Santa Eulalia.” This little chapel marks the spot where Eulalia is said to have suffered martyrdom. It was built so that pilgrims could stop and pray to the saint at any hour, even when the basilica was closed. You might notice the stones used to build it don’t match, and they’re actually salvaged pieces from a Roman temple dedicated to the god Mars. The Latin on the pediment doesn’t mention Eulalia at all, instead, it’s still inscribed as being dedicated to Mars! Today, Saint Eulalia is celebrated as the patron saint of Merida, as well as many cities across Spain, Portugal, Italy, and Latin America.

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