Roman Theatre

Behind these railings lie the remains of the Roman Theatre of Cádiz, one of the oldest in all of Hispania, rediscovered almost by accident in 1980 beneath the houses of the old El Pópulo district. Dating back to the first century before our era, it was built thanks to the Balbus family, Gaditans of Phoenician origin who became Roman citizens and close allies of Julius Caesar, and whose bold ambition was to create a “Neapolis,” a new town with major public buildings, including this theatre, which could seat more than ten thousand spectators—an extraordinary number for a city five times smaller. Built into the hillside, it followed the classic Roman layout, with the lower classes seated highest up, wealthier citizens in the middle and the elite closest to the orchestra and stage, which would once have been decorated with columns, statues and elaborate moving sets. Over time, the theatre was abandoned and reused: stones were taken from it, its galleries became storage spaces, and a medieval fortress was even built on top. Today, several buildings still sit directly over what was once one of the largest Roman theatres in the country. The interpretation centre nearby helps make sense of the site, with models, videos and access to the galleries, and if you’d like to go inside, the entrance is around the corner on Calle Mesón. One rather dark story is often linked to this place: during games held in 43 BC, Lucius Cornelius Balbus, one of the family’s most influential members, is said to have had a town crier from Seville thrown to the beasts simply because he found him too ugly, a macabre reminder that Roman entertainment could be as brutal as it was spectacular. Today, thankfully, the theatre welcomes only curious visitors eager to explore this remarkable piece of Cádiz’s ancient history.