Statue of Hasan Xhikli and Xhamia e Teqes

Here, there are two things worth your attention. On your right stands Xhamia e Teqes, known as the Teqe Mosque. What you see today is a former Ottoman religious complex, no longer active and partly in ruins, but protected as a cultural monument in Albania since 1973. This building was once part of a tekke, a place where Muslim believers gathered not only to pray, but also to talk, reflect and practise their faith in a more personal and spiritual way than in a traditional mosque, something close to a small religious community. These tekkes were often linked to Sufism, a current of Islam that places emphasis on inner spirituality, reflection and tolerance rather than strict religious rules. The mosque is mentioned as early as the seventeenth century, showing that a religious structure already existed here at that time. The building you see today is dated by an inscription to the year 1145 of the Hegira, which corresponds to 1732–1733, although some sources suggest a construction or major rebuilding in 1773, so the exact chronology remains debated. Its shape is a good example of Ottoman Islamic architecture, with a domed structure built in the local stone that gives Gjirokastër its distinctive look. The original minaret is no longer visible. During the communist period, many religious buildings were destroyed or closed. The Teqe Mosque escaped complete demolition thanks to its protected status, but it was closed to worship and never recovered a religious function, which explains its current state. Very close to here stands another historic mosque, Xhamia e Pazarit, built in 1757 and still active today, locally known as the bazaar mosque, whose minaret you will easily spot as you move around the city. But let’s return to Shezai Çomo Street, where you are now. On your left, you’ll notice a statue you may already have seen, a memorial dedicated to Hasan Xhikli, a local patriot from Gjirokastër. Interestingly, very little is known about his life and actions, but records tell us he was born in 1875 and was involved locally in supporting Albanian national identity during a time of major upheaval, marked by the decline of the Ottoman Empire, Albania’s independence and strong political tensions. It is assumed that he was sufficiently respected to be honoured with a public monument. The statue shows him standing on a pedestal, and one detail often draws attention: he is not depicted holding a weapon, which is rather unusual for a patriotic monument of this kind. Even so, he remains a local figure who played a role in shaping Albanian identity.