Saint Domnius Cathedral

You’re standing in front of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, one of Split’s most iconic landmarks, and quite possibly one of the most unusual cathedrals in the world. Why? Because, originally… it wasn’t a cathedral at all. This circular, imposing building, decorated with Corinthian columns, was built in the 4th century AD as the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian. It was here that the retired Roman emperor intended to rest for eternity. But history took an unexpected twist. A few centuries later, in the 7th century, the region’s Christians decided to transform the imperial tomb into a cathedral, a symbolic act, considering Diocletian is infamous for his brutal persecution of Christians. And here’s the irony: the building is now dedicated to his most prominent local victim, Saint Domnius, a bishop martyred during his reign. In other words, the executioner’s tomb became the martyr’s shrine. History does have a sense of humor. Architecturally, it’s a fascinating blend of styles. The heart of the building, the mausoleum, is pure ancient Roman, with its columns, dome, and decorative friezes. Inside, you can still see Corinthian capitals, carved cornices, and a fine baptismal font cut from red marble. Over the centuries, Christian features were added: a choir, altars, frescoes, and most famously… the bell tower. That’s the tall, slender structure rising high above Split’s rooftops. Built gradually between the 12th and 16th centuries in Romanesque and later Gothic style, with some Baroque touches, it’s one of the most recognizable medieval bell towers in Dalmatia. If you’re up for it, you can climb the steps all the way to the top for a spectacular view over Split and the Adriatic Sea, just be warned, the climb can be dizzying, and the bells are loud when they ring unexpectedly! Inside the cathedral, don’t miss the remarkable 12th-century wooden doors carved by Andrija Buvina, which depict the life of Christ in exquisite detail. Around the sides, you’ll find chapels holding saints’ sarcophagi, marble altars, and beautiful Baroque decoration. Here’s an intriguing fact: Saint Domnius Cathedral is often described as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world still in use in its original building, and possibly the only surviving example of a pagan imperial mausoleum converted into a functioning Christian church. Not bad for one address. Before you head inside, entry requires a ticket, but it’s well worth it, take a moment to enjoy the extraordinary setting you’re in. You’re standing in the Peristyle, the monumental courtyard of Diocletian’s Palace. In Roman times, this was where the emperor appeared before his subjects like a quasi-divine figure. Surrounded by marble columns, flanked by a Roman temple on one side and the former mausoleum-turned-cathedral on the other, it was the ceremonial heart of the palace. And right next to the cathedral entrance, you can spot a genuine Egyptian sphinx, brought from Luxor by the Romans, still standing here as a reminder of the empire’s fascination with the East. It’s a rare, almost surreal place, one where you can literally sit on the steps of history.