Breton Food

You’re standing in front of the Halles d’Auray, also known as Ar C’hoc’hu, which simply means “the market hall” in Breton. The word koc’hu referred to the covered building where markets and fairs were held. It even gave rise to the French the word “cohue,” which came to mean a noisy, jostling crowd.

It’s easy to imagine the atmosphere on market day! The history of Auray’s market halls officially begins in 1199, with a charter issued by Duchess Constance. Three centuries later, the first halls were replaced by a large building with an earthen floor and a sturdy oak roof structure.

Meat, fish, shellfish, and vegetables were displayed on wooden or stone stalls, and when space ran out, merchants simply spilled into the surrounding streets. Monday was already market day back then… and that tradition continues today.

Since the Middle Ages, the building has changed appearance several times. The medieval halls were demolished in the early 20th century and replaced by a metal-framed structure. They were completely rebuilt again in the 1960s, replaced once more in 1998, and renovated in 2022.

And since we’re talking about good food, here are a few local specialties to try during your stay. Start with a buckwheat galette, also called a galette de blé noir: a savory pancake with a slightly nutty, rustic flavor, often filled with ham, egg, and cheese. In Brittany, the distinction between a crêpe and a galette varies from one region to another, but here, galette generally means the savory buckwheat version.

If you enjoy cured meats, try andouille de Guémené. It’s easy to recognize by the concentric rings you see when it’s sliced and by its distinctive smoky flavor. For dessert, far breton is a thick, custard-like cake often made with prunes, while gâteau breton is a dense, crumbly pastry made with a generous amount of butter.

And of course, you can’t leave without trying kouign-amann. Its name simply means “butter cake” in Breton, so it makes no attempt to hide its main ingredient! Bread dough is layered generously with salted butter and sugar, then folded several times to create thin layers.

As it bakes, the outside becomes crisp and caramelized while the inside stays soft and rich. Pair it all with a bowl of cider, or apple juice, and you’ll already have a pretty good taste of Brittany on your plate.