The Bell Tower and the Seats of Power

The tall bell tower immediately draws your attention. It was likely first built as a Lombard watchtower, before being turned into a bell tower. Its swallowtail crenellations and the small loggias in white and green marble help soften what was once a much heavier silhouette. Take a look at the clock facing the square: it has just one hand and runs on a twenty-four-hour dial, something quite rare and not always easy to read. Now, standing in the middle of the square, you can see two palaces facing each other. On one side is the Palazzo Pretorio, easy to recognize thanks to the many coats of arms covering its façade, like the signatures of the magistrates who once served here. This was the center of judicial power in the city, where justice was sometimes delivered in public. If you have a moment, you can step through the gateway, the inner courtyard is free to access and well worth a look, with its colorful frescoes. As you come back out, you’ll see the Palazzo Comunale on the opposite side. For more than seven centuries, this town hall has been at the heart of local political life. Take a moment to look at its façade. Above the central balcony, you can spot the Medici coat of arms, with its distinctive red balls on a golden background, a reminder that Pistoia once came under the control of Florence. And now, look just to the left of the central window on the first floor. There’s a small carved head, easy to miss, but full of mystery. According to the most well-known legend, it represents Filippo Tedici, considered the great traitor of Pistoia. In the 14th century, he is said to have handed the city over to an enemy war leader, and this head was carved as a lasting mark of his betrayal. But there’s another theory. Some historians believe it may actually represent a completely different figure, perhaps a local hero linked to a military campaign in Majorca. Even today, no one is entirely sure, and this small detail continues to spark curiosity and debate.