The Cult of the Souls of Purgatory

I know what you're thinking—'another church!'—but believe me when I say this one is truly unique. It’s called Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio, and it’s just perfect if you’re fascinated by the mysterious or macabre. Let’s travel back to 17th-century Naples. After disasters like the 1631 Vesuvius eruption and the deadly plague of 1656, the city was overwhelmed with the dead—there simply wasn’t enough room to bury everyone properly. Many bodies ended up in the Fontanelle Cemetery outside the city, a place well worth a visit. People believed that souls without proper graves were trapped in purgatory, unable to reach heaven until they were prayed for. This belief gave rise to a very special Neapolitan tradition honoring these “poor souls,” known as anime pezzentelle. The construction of the church before you was funded by wealthy families who wanted to care for those forgotten souls who never received a proper burial. Since the soul was thought to reside in the skull, it’s the skulls themselves that are cared for here. Women pick a forgotten skull from a mass grave, clean it, and “adopt” it. They set up an altar, leave offerings, and pray for the soul’s salvation. Morbid or touching? You decide. In return, these souls are believed to help their “caretakers,” easing their lives, offering guidance, and sometimes even performing miracles. The skulls that responded well were lovingly decorated and placed in glass cases called scarabattola. Those that didn’t meet expectations were replaced. Some skulls became famous—like Lucia’s, who died suddenly just after her wedding. Her skull is crowned and veiled like a bride’s, and she’s now considered the protector of brides. If such stories are of interest to you, feel free to join a guided tour (for a fee) to explore the fascinating ancient underground chamber where rituals take place, plus a small museum in the sacristy.