The Lungomare

You’re walking along what is officially the longest coastal promenade in Italy, stretching for 15 kilometers. Before 1927, this entire shoreline was just a row of wooden fishermen's huts, perched on stilts. It was Araldo di Crollalanza, the governor of Bari, who decided to transform the area: filling in the rocky coastline, creating wide stone sidewalks, adding balustrades, and installing these 197 black cast-iron lanterns that light up one by one each evening like candles. Between the sea and the walls, the lungomare sets the rhythm of daily life for the people of Bari. In the morning, as early as seven o’clock, fishermen spread their catch on tables at the old harbor, where they stand and eat sea urchins, octopus, and anchovies. In the evening, the promenade turns into a popular spot for the passeggiata: families, couples, children, and grandparents gather to stroll, meet up, and enjoy an ice cream. It’s a social tradition that endures, especially on Sunday evenings, to help digest a hearty family meal. Speaking of meals, don’t leave Bari without trying the orecchiette, the local pasta served with broccoli rabe, garlic, anchovies, and traditional olive oil. If you prefer focaccia, Bari’s version will delight you with its simplicity and softness, making for the perfect start to your day. Yes, in Bari, many people eat focaccia in the morning, even for breakfast. The lungomare is also the perfect spot to enjoy raw seafood, a local tradition. You can also try a small fried pastry stuffed with tomato and mozzarella, called panzerotto. For those with a sweet tooth, Bari has plenty of temptations. Start with sporcamuss, small squares of puff pastry filled with custard, served warm and dusted with powdered sugar. Their name literally means "dirty the mouth," as it’s impossible to eat them without getting sugar all over. You’ll also often see pasticciotti in bakery windows: small shortcrust tarts filled with custard, usually eaten in the morning with coffee. Bocconotti are small pastries filled with jam, cream, or sometimes chocolate. And if you visit during Christmas time, you might find cartellate, fried ribbons of dough spiraled into shapes and covered with honey or cooked wine. Bari will certainly treat your taste buds!