San Camilo Market

Whether you’re hungry or not, a visit to San Camilo Market is always an adventure. Built on the site of a former convent, this enormous iron-and-glass market hall opened in 1938. There’s no sleeping in here: at 6:00 a.m., the market comes alive in a whirl of colors and aromas.

It’s the perfect place to start the day with an especially sweet and creamy local papaya juice. As you wander through the aisles, you’ll pass flower stalls, mountains of tropical fruit, and pyramids of fresh cheese. And whatever you do, don’t leave without stopping at Doña Rosa’s stand, where the famous queso helado has been served since 1948.

Don’t let the name fool you—it doesn’t contain a drop of cheese. It’s a delicious handmade frozen dessert made with milk, cinnamon, and coconut. For the full local experience, do as the people of Arequipa do and order the menú del día.

For just a few soles, you can enjoy a traditional daily menu with a generous soup, a main course, and dessert. Among the city’s essential dishes, the undisputed king is rocoto relleno—but I hope your stomach is ready for it. This round red chili pepper is stuffed with spicy ground meat and topped with melted cheese.

And yes, it’s hot. Very hot. For something gentler, try chupe de camarones, a rich, hearty soup made with river shrimp, potatoes, milk, egg, and cheese.

Or go for ocopa: potatoes covered in a creamy sauce made with peanuts and huacatay, an Andean herb with a distinctive aroma. Feeling adventurous? Then it’s time to try cuy—a whole guinea pig, fried until golden and crispy.

To wash it all down, order a chicha de guiñapo, a refreshing fermented purple-corn beer. Sitting down at a Peruvian table means tasting one of the richest cuisines on the planet. Peru is the original home of the potato, with more than 3,000 to 4,000 native varieties.

It’s also where some of the world’s oldest traces of corn have been found, as well as the botanical origins of cacao. These culinary traditions stretch back thousands of years, alongside dishes like the famous ceviche—fresh fish marinated in lime juice and recognized as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. All that’s left to do is find a seat, order a few dishes, and enjoy the show.

As they say here: ¡Buen provecho!