Cappella del Tau

Piazza Garibaldi has a few surprises in store. Let’s start with the Cappella del Tau, just on your right. It was built in the 14th century for the Order of the Antonines, a religious group known for caring for the sick, especially those affected by what was called “Saint Anthony’s fire,” a disease that was widespread in the Middle Ages. Its name comes from the Tau symbol, a T-shaped letter worn by the monks, associated with protection and healing. Inside, the chapel is entirely covered with frescoes, depicting major biblical scenes, from the creation of the world to the life of Christ, but also very concrete moments of caring for the sick. It’s considered one of the most important Gothic fresco cycles in Tuscany. And yet, for a long time, all of this was hidden. The chapel had been turned into a residential building, and the paintings were covered with layers of plaster for nearly two centuries, before being rediscovered and restored in the 60s. Now, turn your attention to the statue in the center of the square. It represents Giuseppe Garibaldi, a key figure in the unification of Italy, shown here on horseback. Notice his posture, his gaze set toward the horizon, his body upright. He embodies the image of a determined leader, driven by a clear vision. The cap he wears is a symbol of freedom, and his scarf recalls his campaigns in South America. This statue, inaugurated in 1904, took more than twenty years to complete, as its location sparked intense debate. Placing Garibaldi, known for his anti-clerical views, so close to the city’s religious center was far from universally accepted. And that’s exactly what makes this square so interesting today. On one side, a medieval chapel linked to faith and care. On the other, a political hero, symbol of revolution and modernity. Two very different visions of the world, side by side.